I've ordered little tags for the valves, so that it'll be possible for someone other than me to figure out what's going on.
But the tags aren't here yet, and as of Feb 2006 the engine isn't in yet, so there's a lot of other work to do before everything is finished up and pretty. In the meantime, the new fuel tank is in, and I need this panel to start cycling fuel through the Racor and make sure it's clean.
The Bottom valve controls inflow, and the top controls outflow.
When both valves are pointed UP, it takes
the main feed in the AFT tank, and sends it to the engine.
When both valves are pointed to the LEFT,
it takes fuel from
the clean out pipe in the AFT tank, and sends it back to the AFT tank.
When both valves are pointed DOWN, it takes
the FWD tank (in the V Berth) and sends it back to the FWD tank.
Of course, I don't *have* a FWD tank right now,
so those fittings are just capped off.
This lets me "polish" the fuel in
and also will let me transfer fuel between tanks.
Since the engine and half the batteries are currently out of the boat, as well as most of the cabinetry and a couple of bulkheads, it looks like it's just hanging out in the middle of no where. But once I get the engine back in and put all the wiring back where it belongs, it'll be a lot cleaner.
February 2006 --
This new distribution panel
is mounted just inside
the engine room door,
up high and to the right.
There's an "IN" valve,
feeding the panel from multiple sources. It outputs to the Racor, which is followed by a Walbro fuel pump. The output of the Walbro 6802 pump feeds an "OUT" valve, so the fuel can be sent in three directions.
There's room in the middle for a light switch, to control
all the new engine room lights without having to feel around for the fixtures.
Right now the engine room lighting is only about half done.
The Racor is attached with hex head bolts and fastened on the back with T-Nuts as well.
Again, I want to be able to take it off without having to pull the whole panel down.
When I bought the boat, this bulkhead was covered by a sound proofing foam, with the Walbro pump and a battery isolator mounted on the foam.
It was messy looking.
The battery isolator is long gone.
I decided to leave the foam in place, though, and bolt the fuel distribution panel on top of it. That seems odd, but it allows some space behind the panel for nuts and other mounting hardware, and also will help reduce the noise from the Walbro pump.
The Walbro 6802 fuel pump doesn't have to run all the time.
In fact, with the engine running, the pump can be off.
It's passive. It doesn't block the flow of fuel when it's off. However, I can turn it on and feed the engine
if the engine's fuel pump quits.
When it's on, it makes a clicking sound, so it's mounted on a thick Buna N rubber pad. There's a thick pad on the back side as well, and the holes in the panel are oversized so that the bolts don't touch the plywood. This keeps the sound and vibration down.
That yellow plug is for an additional hose on the input
side, that goes to the Racor Vacuum gauge up in the cockpit. That allows me
to see the state of the Racor filter, so the element can be changed before
Right now the cockpit is being rebuilt and the new engine panel isn't installed yet.
The input and output hoses are managed with Ancor braces. The empty one at the top will go to the engine.
The bolts holding them on screwed into Stainless
T-Nuts from McMaster-Carr, so that the panel doesn't have to be removed to access the nuts in back, and the hoses can be replaced if necessary without difficulty.
All the fittings are compounded with Permatex
2A gasket, a pipe compound that's safe for diesel fittings. It never gets
hard. It doesn't take much, so after the fittings were about halfway in I
used a syringe to put a thin bead around the threads, and then really cranked
on the fittings. I hate fuel leaks.
Once the engine is in and the cabinetry restored, I'll have to take a few more pictures.
But for now, the pump is running non stop to cycle fuel from the new tank, through the Racor and back into the new tank. I want to make sure that any manufacturing residue or unexpected crud is filtered out, and all the hoses are clear of any dirt, before sending fuel to the new engine.
The switch valves are bolted onto a piece of prefab fiberglass angle iron, from McMaster-Carr.
I used my Handy Dremel Tool to make a little notch in the fiberglass before it was painted, so the valve would fit securely.