August, 2003 --
Well, this is a really happy moment for me..
After the NX2 server and controls, it was time for the cockpit.
(Okay, fine, I'll do the brightwork around
I guess it's time.
Two years ago that was the the least of my worries, but
this boat is really
getting into shape.)
The wire is covered with chafe protection where it exits the back of the instrument pod, and then runs back along the edge of the companionway. That's nice, as it's totally out of sight. I had to pull the dodger back to screw down the cable ties, which are sealed with LifeCaulk.
On the far right side, it is securely attached to the aluminum
block for the traveler base. Fortunately, there were two existing holes that
were well sealed and painted, so I bolted the cable ties down there.
I think this will be safe from getting
snagged by the traveler control line.
The edge of the hole is smoothed out with my Handy Dremel Tool,
and the wire
tie wrapped securely to
keep it from chafing.
Plan A was to run the wire back and down to the Nav station, but it turns out there is only 1/8" of clearance between the liner and the deck at the back.
This is the view when standing at the helm.
(Okay, I'll do the brightwork!)
The letters are easily visible from anywhere in the cockpit. Heck, you can
read them from the dock!
The display can be changed using
the Multi-Control at the Nav Station.
Hooray! I haven't had a working speedo on this boat
since I bought it. Next weekend will be fun,
rain or shine. If there's no breeze I'll just motor around watching the numbers change! (grin)
The Nexus Multi-XL display is mounted on an anodized aluminum
plate that's screwed
onto the pod assembly.
The whole thing requires a lot of assembly, since it can be
put together a lot of different ways based on individual requirements.
My Handy Dremel Tool really helped (right).
The bar is from Metal Magic, a local guy.
He does great work, but you have to get in line.
I gave him a CAD drawing, and he matched it
so the pod clears the teak by 1/4".
The bar is lined up with the front edge of the hatch, using the aluminum front panel for the instrument pod.
When drilling the holes, I was pleased to learn that the laminate on the edges of the companionway is 3/4" thick!
The wire goes through a Blue Sea 'Clam' fitting.
It was tough to find a good place for it
without getting in the way of the traveler controls.
To protect the balsa core, the hole through the cabin top is overdrilled, reamed back on the edges with a hex key, and filled with a large plug of epoxy,
colloidal silica and fiberglass chop.
So I took the wire over and down the edge of the bulkhead.
Note that I left a little piece of nylon rope in place so I don't have to snake a fish down there again if more wires need to be run someday!
You can also see the new wire for the overhead light, and the original wire
that's sealed off with heat shrink.
For now, the old wire is marked 'dead' and left there until the DC panel is rebuilt and the original wire is ready to be removed along the entire length.
(Just in case...)
November 2003 -- Well, once I started playing with it I had to add another Multi Control in the pod so that I could push buttons from the cockpit. This one is really set up for Navigation stuff by default, but the buttons let one access all the functions. When it comes up it shows Course over Ground from the GPS. At the Bottom I have it set to default to Speed over Ground, just so I can see what kind of tide/current I'm fighting here on the SF Bay. If actually going somewhere, it shows Bearing to Waypoint/Distance to Waypoint, or lots of other stuff.
Update 2007 --
the steering system,
I put a Navpod on the new grab rail.
There's an additional Nexus Multidisplay and new Sony wired remote for the stereo.
After thinking about where to put the mike
to avoid messing up the Ritchie compass, I decided to mount it here anyway.
With three GPS units, and a Fluxgate Compass that only draws 1/10 Amp, I never really use the Ritchie. If I need to use it, I'll just unplug the microphone
and move it away
from the compass.
That was good, since I couldn't reach underneath to put a nut and washer
on the forward bolts without taking the
whole boat apart!
Rather than do that, the forward fastener is a 1/4" screw. The hole is packed with super thick colloidal silica epoxy putty, and the screw set in after being dipped in PAM.
When doing the 'screw in epoxy' trick, I like to turn the screw while inserting,
to get the epoxy putty
well seated around the screw.