While drilling and filling the holes for the Windlass, I also made epoxy plugs for a good padeye on the foredeck, then left the plugs there for six months waiting to get around to it.
You can see how the UV exposure turns epoxy an ugly brown,
and begins to break the epoxy down.
That was expected, and is no big deal because all the brown stuff is going to be removed. It's just fine below the surface, although after a few years it would be a problem if not covered.
Anyway, I was tired of looking at it.
I believe in using too much caulk,
and wiping up excess.
Caulk is cheap, and leaks are a pain.
The 3/8" bolts are just tight enough to hold it down, leaving a thick pad of caulk under the fiberglass pad, and between the padeye and deck pad.
With this much caulk in there, it will probably take months to cure. Once the caulk is well cured, I'll go back and crank down on the nuts underneath and compress that caulk gasket.
Lifecaulk is a polysulfide, and this mess cleaned up in
minutes with mineral spirits.
The holes are solid epoxy through the deck, so there's no exposed core in case it ever *does* leak.
The countersinks are made with my Handy Dremel Tool, and
give a good thick
gasket of caulk.
Drilling deck holes perfectly vertical is very easy
with this jig from Home Depot.
The padeye itself is rather massive, but I had it so I'm using
When doing the deck layout for the Main Sheet, I bought the biggest padeye I could find, then when it came time to install it I couldn't find it!
So I bought another one, then found the first one a month later.
Under this padeye, I'm putting a 4.5" deck pad
made of prefab fiberglass from McMaster-Carr.
I want to have lots of caulk sealing it up, as this is a very wet area.
For a backing plate, I used two 1/8 inch thick steel bars, that reach a few inches past the padeye on either side.
This will work find for a downhaul,
or to tie things securely on the foredeck.
You can also snap a harness on it
when working on the bow.