All the hardware is set on fiberglass pads, so that there's lots of caulk protecting the holes in the deck. The pads also keep the lines level across the deck and give a fair lead into the clutches in the cockpit.
Whenever possible, I'm using 316 stainless hex-head bolts, just to make it easy to crank down on the bolts after the caulk is cured -- it's easy to jam a wrench on there and tighten from underneath without letting the bolts move.
Here are the pads for the bullseyes and the double organizer. That double organizer sits up 1 1/4" to provide a level lead into the clutch, and meet the level of the lines coming in from the mast.
I didn't need a solid "brick" of fiberglass, so drilled out most of the inside.
If you did an internet search on "Deck Layout", I suggest taking a look at the Running Rig page, so that this page makes a little more sense.
Here's the view looking over the top of the dodger, standing on the port primary winch.
A few immediate comments:
The block pulling the vang line down is leaning to port because I have the boom pulled over to port. When the boom is hard over, it leans even more. The block should keep the line in place and away from the reef lines, which will be slack most of the time. I've ordered a smaller, lower block that should make it look less goofy.
The reef lines run through bullseyes. I figured that they're static loads and it should be okay.
The bullseyes closest to the cockpit are set at that angle to hide the holes left over from some previous hardware. Aesthetically it looks a little odd, but leaving the old holes exposed would have looked even odder! It's at the same angle as the triple organizer.
The bullseyes sit on 3/8" high pads aft, and
3/4" high pads forward, to gently guide the reef lines down and keep them away from the main sheet and vang.
The organizer is there to pull the lines away from the companionway, and keep the vang from getting tangled with the reef lines.
This picture is the underside of the triple organizer.
I'm only showing it because the holes are funny -- right to left it looks like they're multiplying!
(Okay, I've lost it.)
The organizer hides the holes from an old cheek block, now filled with epoxy.
Underneath, they're bolted to an 1/8" thick steel bar.
I wasn't sure what kind of plastic they were made out of, but it might be a polycarbonate. Since the bolts go through plastic, not steel, I wanted to avoid the polysulfide caulk risk, and injected black silicone into the tops and bottoms of the mounting holes. The fiberglass pads are bedded in polysulfide LifeCaulk, but it doesn't touch the plastic.
Below, you can see them masked off, in the same way I masked off the Spinlock clutches. I sure hope they're strong enough.
Update August 2002 -- Everything has worked exactly as planned. I'm pleased. I did replace the deck-mounted vang block with a lower profile block, but that was just for looks. Having all these lines across the deck hasn't been a problem. With the two-line reefing setup for two reef points, I haven't had to leave the cockpit.
The pads are also doing the other thing that I wanted --
I don't have dirty black marks on deck under the lines, since they all sit a little bit off the deck.
March 2003 --
I took a schaefer small traveler standup adapter and rounded off a corner to use where the mainsheet turns at the base of the gooseneck.
That connection has always been a concern for me.
I'm still thinking about moving the block up onto the boom, if I can do it without
chafing any lines.
The entire starboard side of the house is clear, so there's plenty of room to stand and work. The port side is pretty full. I'll probably move the main halyard over to the inboard sheave on the triple organizer, which will open up a little more working room to port.
Naturally, at moments I think it's a beautiful thing,
and at moments I think
I've created a monster.
I also have a serious case of buyers remorse, and wonder if it's actually totally wrong and I'm just too dumb to know better. The proof's in the pudding, and this boat is ready for a shakedown cruise!