Splicing 24 gauge Marine Electronics wire
Manufacturers pack a dozen little 24 gauge wires into a bundle that's small
to snake through a boat,
but then they put a connector on the end
that needs a 5/8" hole!
This is the wire for the Cockpit VHF Remote control.
To get it through the pedestal,
I had to cut the plug off.
Naturally, the wires are too small for my stripper tool, so I shaved the insulation off with a very sharp utility knife.
The connection is really wire to wire. The solder just holds the connection together. A little dab will do ya'.
I thought I had some 1/8" heat shrink on the boat, but apparently not, so this 3/16" will do.
The heat shrink insulates all the little soldered connections
from each other, and also adds more
strength to the splice.
Note that the heat shrink is pinched gently with needle nosed pliers to make sure the adhesive is glued well to the wire. The wire was too small for the heat shrink to really clamp down.
With all the little connections done, a piece of 1/4" heat shrink on each side pulls all the wires back together right up to the splices.
A piece of 1/2" heat shrink covers everything. Now it should be just fine.
However, this one has a problem. Note the very thin area just to the right edge of the section of 1/2" heat shrink.
I messed up, and didn't get the 1/2"
heat shrink far enough to overlap the original insulation. There's a little
tiny spot that only has the 1/4" heat shrink for insulation. That's fine
but mechanically it's bad because that spot is very flexible, and the splice will always bend right at that spot. Eventually, the wire will break there,
unless I make it stronger.
The cheap and easy fix was to take four pieces of Black extra tie wrap ends that were in the trash, and put one piece on each side of the entire splice.
Then I used little tiny tie wraps to hold the braces in place. This prevents the splice from bending at that one weak spot.
Now it's really stiff, and there won't be any flexing around the solder joints.